guildfordcycads

Greenhouse fun continues; Raintree Tropical and a bonus drive-by garden

Greenhouse fun continues; Raintree Tropical and a bonus drive-by garden

Knowing I’d need a winter “pick me up” (yes, even after a visit to San Diego), I planned an outing to Raintree Tropical with friends Tim and Evan. This nursery is south of Portland, in Silverton, and features a nice warm indoor plant shopping experience (earlier visits here and here).

This palm was completely enclosed in a tall plastic protective structure during my last visit, but that visit was right after a record breaking period of cold last January. This winter had been quite mild when we visited on February 1st. 

Raintree is known for their palms, so it’s only fitting they’ve got them planted all around the property.

Okay, let’s go inside…

I miss my Pseudopanax ‘Sabre’, it was a good looking plant (winter death).

P. ‘Sabre’ with friends…

Ensete ventricosum ‘Maurelii’ (I might need to plant one of these again this summer).

Mangave some somebody…

Graptopetalum?

A nice sized Dicksonia antarctica.

The upper part of this cycad is shown in the next photo, I was rather taken with the base however, it was so mossy spectacular. 

Plant chaos of the best sort.

Adiantum hispidulum

Pteris vittata (a big container with a label even, $40).

I’ve bought so many Pyrrosia linqua here that I wasn’t even tempted by these. Okay, maybe just a little…

This however… I was on the hunt for some underappreciated Phlebodium aureum.

Check out the climbing nepenthes…

An excellent Phlebodium aureum, but it was rooted into another much larger pot.

If you forget to look up in a place like this then you’ll miss quite a lot.

Layers and layers of plants.

Abutilon ‘Tiger Eye’

I loved this gorgeous creature.

Ditto for this one.

This one kind of gives me the creeps though.

One last glance before I pay for my purchases…

They’re all weeds! Mine are the five greenhouse weeds (so called by the fellow who took my money); three containers of Pteris vittata (on the left) and two of Phlebodium aureum (on the right), he was so happy to see me taking the weeds away that he charged me weedy prices! The two containers at the top of the photo are .

And here are a palm (I neglected to ask him what it was) and that terribly cute cactus.

Just a few more photos in this twofer post. Enroute to Raintree Tropical, Tim and I drove by by this Silverton garden that I’ve written about in the past (here). 

I hadn’t been back by since I took photos for that post in 2022.

Everything was looking great, although the ginormous Agave ovatifolia that originally caught my eye driving by (back in 2022) is gone, it bloomed (I think that happened last summer? Doug mentioned it in a comment he left on a post). 

I spy a replacement agave, behind the rock, in front of the monkey puzzle tree (Araucaria araucana).

Thankfully the garden is not A. ovatifolia free, this big guy is still looking pristine.

As are the plants the large steel planter.

It was great to see this garden again after a few years! (love the saxifrage)

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Tillage radish

Tillage radish

Morning. We are looking into expanding our vegetable garden area this spring and summer for either next year or this coming fall.

In the past, we’ve accomplished this cheap and dirty- made raised terraces with whatever we can find around the property and dumped pure compost. Cheap and easy from the dump. High nitrogen consumers first year. Wait.

We’ve gotta get something going for rotation purposes right? I figure it’s time. This will be the 3rd summer. I am contemplating daikon radish and possibly sunflowers. However, not sure what to do once these plants are established.

I know the sunnies can affect the soil and other plant growth. Do I rip them at the end of their season? Do I pull the daikon when they’re done? We generally attempt no-till with established rows and top dressing.

Also, looking to bring in amended soil for the new terraces ON TOP of the soil breakers. Any advice would be wonderful as this would be new to me.

Zone 8. A steep hill. Rocky soil- teaming with life just harsh. It’s a crystal mine! Former “dog kennel” (enough time has passed.) Also down hill from a natural spring seep area. Tilling the bottom first is NOT an option. Well-water. Southeast facing. All the wildlife.

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Is Permaculture Only Food Forests?

Is Permaculture Only Food Forests?

Alright, so whenever I hear about “permaculture” I always hear about swales and polycultures and food forests and so on and so on. It’s not like I have any problem with all of this (I think a career in this sort of design might be fun), it’s just that I was wondering if permaculture was just a method to design food forests or if there’s anything else. It seems like YouTube and other online media focus on either food forests for large-scale areas and teensy-weensy little flower gardens for suburban backyards.

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Rose Pruning Again

Rose Pruning Again

Late February to early March is the time for the major pruning of roses. Back in December, I did a preliminary pruning, now is the time for the last major pruning before the spring season begins. 
First, a comment on hybrid tea roses. This is what most people have in their gardens. I only have a few hybrid tea roses. These are the roses that need the most drastic pruning. Basically, you cut all the canes down to about 1 foot, making the cuts right above an outward-facing bud. The result will be something like this – 
Most of my roses fall into the shrub and climbing categories. These roses are pruned differently and not as severe as the hybrid teas. For shrub roses (and many of the David Austin English roses fall into this category), I first take out the older canes completely to the ground. The older canes are easy to spot – they will be thicker and darker in color. After thinning out the older canes, I remove any canes that are damaged, crossing one another and canes that are extremely thin. I then cut back the remaining canes about 1/3. The result looks something like this –
Before –
And after –

The above rose is a very dense and twiggy one. The following photo shows a more conventional type shrub rose –
For climbing roses, I again remove older canes and damaged canes. If the rose is a newer one, say two or three years old, I will only remove one or two canes at most. Older roses might have a greater number to take out. It is good to train climbing roses so that the canes will go horizontal. If this is the case, I trim back each branch along the cane, like this –
Following pruning, the next step is to clean out leaves and debris around the base. Also remove any remaining leaves that are still clinging to the plant –
I sprinkle alfafa pellets – about one cup for an average-sized rose, two or more cups for very large ones –

Apply fresh mulch around and over the canes. More than likely, there will be more cold weather to come. Therefore, I will wait until closer to spring to rake this mulch away from the center of the rose.

Spray a dormant oil/copper fungicide mixture over the canes.  I use a combination of Monterey Horticultural Oil and Monterey Liqui-Cop. The formula is 1 ounce of horticultural oil and 2 ounces of Liqui-Cop in one gallon of water. Spray the canes as well as the ground surrounding the base of the rose. Make sure you do this on a dry day. This can be repeated later in the winter and early spring. (At the nursery, we recommend three sprayings – on New Year’s Day, Valentine’s Day and early to mid March). Note: Read the label for more information, especially when it comes to combining products. The Monterey oil and copper fungicide can be combined but others may not. Check to make sure!)

And that is pretty much it! When leaves begin to appear, probably in late March or April, I will rake back the mulch from around the center of the plant and begin to apply fertilizer. 

Text and photos by Phillip Oliver, Dirt Therapy

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Retro fitting swales into orchard

Retro fitting swales into orchard

Hi All,

As the title states. Does anyone of good resources, tips/tricks or advice about retro fitting swales to an existing orchard? I’ll leave the details out so the advice can be used by many. Two main things: sloped hill and the fruit trees are scattered around the place.

Obviously marking the contour lines and see which trees are on line with each other and who is not. As a helping guide as to where to place the swales.

But still, one has roots to content with, hopefully not to damage them too much.

Does anyone have experience with this?

Thanks!

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Ideas for my property FL 9B

Ideas for my property FL 9B

Hello, I moved into a new property 1.25 acres mainly cabbage palms, pine trees, and oak trees. Im also right next to a canal. I was wondering if you guys had any ideas/input for my food forest plans. I’m currently reading “Create your own Florida Food Forest” by David the Good. So first off

Recommendations for killing the grass in the area? I was thinking just using the cardboard from all of my moving boxes to kill the grass and start planting.

I bought nitrogen fixing plant cuttings so I can start building up the soil once they grow. I have some fruit plants that I’m bringing from home.

What do you guys think for plants/fruits near the water? I have purple elephant ears that im going to plant near the water to utilize for cuttings as well.

Anyone have experience in the area? I’m north of Lake Okeechobee. Thanks Thank you!

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